Agoué

Yesterday I had an awesome adventure. (sorry, no photos)

My friend and colleague at another school, Romain, took me to visit his village, Agoué. This village is on the highway on the road to Togo. In fact, it’s only 2k away from the official border crossing. But, in reality it’s a tweener village. The Mono River is what separates Togo from Benin. And Agoué is nestled on a narrowish strip of land, probably less than 1k wide. The Atlantic Ocean is on one side and the Mono River is on the other.

I really wish that I had brought along my camera. But it’s hard to remember.

We left Lokossa around 8am and moto-ed all the way to Agoué. It didn’t take as nearly as long as I thought it would, probably an hour and fifteen minutes. However, my rear end couldn’t have been happier to get off the moto and walk around the rest of the day.

We visited Romain’s friend and parked his moto and my helmet at this house. Then we set off. We walked through a cemetery just meters away. And he showed me where his grandmother and uncle are buried. I later found out this cemetery was for the animists of the village. It is just out there, next to the beach, in the sand, not affiliated with any church.

We walked a little ways and found the beach. Houses are literally next to the shores of the water. The shoreline is probably less than 10 meters away! Romain remembers the water being a lot further away when he was a little boy 18 years ago. And we continued walking along the beach till we found someone who knew where his uncle and cousin lived. We sat and he chatted with his uncle; in Mina, a local language, of course and I didn’t understand a lick of words said. But I assumed they talked about what our plans for the day were.

After visiting his uncle, we went over to the Catholic mission. I think I was told that this is the oldest mission in Benin, it’s a little over 150 years old. And we walked in and looked around in the cemetery but couldn’t find Romain’s grandfather’s grave. I asked how deep the graves were and I think he said a couple meters deep. And to that I replied, that chez moi, people are buried 6 feet under (great show, btw) or about 3 meters. And here, they like to put a big, long cement or cement covered with tiles, block over the grave. Though, I am not sure if people are entombed in this cement chunk, or if it’s there as some kind of cover or marker. Also, the first president of Togo and his wife are buried in this cemetery. By the way, it was REALLY, really hot.

Lunch was next. And it was really hot and I was super hungry. So food and a cold drink were a great relief.

After lunch, we made our way towards the Mono River. As we were walking the sky was getting a bit darker and the wind was really picking up, blowing sand everywhere. I knew that it was going to rain. Houses here are built up off the ground; really high, actually. And this is to prevent the houses from getting flooded during the rainy season when the Mono rises. We stopped in at a couple of houses. The first was the house of his deceased grandmother, so I assumed the people still living there are his relatives. There was the cutest little girl there, who took to me like fly on honey. By the time we left (and we were there only 10 minutes or so) she was sitting in my lap, head on my shoulder. SO cute!!

And then we went over to Romain’s aunt’s house. Once we sat down, the rain started coming down. Not hard or anything, but more like Seattle rain, like when it rains continuously for an hour or so. So there we sat, for longer than I liked, but whatever. Only, it’s not fun to sit and listen to people speak a language you don’t understand. I felt like a child because here, people don’t really talk to children; they talk at them. So I just sat there, watching them talk. Every now and then they’d all glance at me, and I could tell they were talking something about me, but it never seemed negative, it usually doesn’t, so I didn’t and don’t mind too much.

When the rain finally let up, we walked to the river bank and stepped into a pirogue and a teenage boy ferried us across the river. On the other side, the boat stopped in the sand bank meters from the shore and the water looked gross and there were plants and I didn’t feel like walking in it. So Romain offered to carry me, piggy back to the shore. hahaha, thank god because I did not want to step in that part of the water. So now we were in Togo!

We meandered into the village. The purpose of going to Togo and the village of Agouégan was to go to Romain’s grandfather’s village and get/eat some coconuts. We walked through the empty market, where apparently nothing has changed in the past 18 years! The rain started up again and we sat and sat at an old lady’s house for a while till the rain stopped. She offered me/us something to drink, but I refused at first. And then she asked/told me that I was refusing her, so I broke down and accepted a drink. LionKiller. That’s what it’s called, it’s “sparkling lemonade” but tasted like a 7up. (My bladder was getting full.) Naturally conversation was in Mina, and again I just watched them talk.

As the rain slowed we continued to the more village-y part of town where, grandpére lived. And this was the most beautiful walk I’ve ever had. Walking out there, the scenery was gorgeous. It was everything I ever imagined a village in Africa to look like (minus some elephants :P). There were coconut palm trees every where, a red sand/dirt path, tall grass, wide open fields, etc. Since it had rained, it was easy to walk in the sand, and the air was filled with a clean Earthy, grassy smell. We finally arrived at the grandfather’s land. There were coconut palm trees 30+ feet high everywhere and plots of sprouting corn shoots underneath. In the back of this area was a little family compound with several little huts, all with thatched roofs, and one more modern building made of cement bricks and a tin roof. Children were all around, mostly inside because of the rain.

There was one coconut tree that wasn’t as tall as the rest, so Romain and his older cousin that was with us took down several young coconuts and we drank them (I really only had room for one), and there was hardly any meat in them, which was sad, cause I love eating the young, tender coconut meat from the green coconuts.

And then we were on our way back to the old lady’s house. And I immediately had to use her latrine. This time we didn’t stick around too long. Before we left, she insisted I take 10 coconuts back with me! 10! What am I gonna do with 10 coconuts?! I’ll have a few, but I think I am gonna have to gift people with the rest!

Crossing back into Benin was simple. We had to greet the gendarmes. Romain’s cousin told them we had made a visit to the champs (fields). And he made some funny comment about bringing Madame into the fields. I thought for a split second he was gonna give us trouble, but that was it. And there was a big pirogue ready to go back across the river. I rolled up my jeans, pulled off my flip-flops and had minor difficulty climbing into the boat. I really rocked it! Hahaha, but a helping hand let me in. And we were off.

And that’s it. That was my adventure. We got home just after dark. And once again my rear end was happy to be off the moto.

And I was super tired and chilled kinda to the bone because the air was crispy-ish because of the rain. So I boiled some water and took a hot bucket shower and went to sleep, without the fan I might add. Though it was turned on at 1 in the morning when it got too stuffy.

So all in all, it was an awesome day.